Mature and Near Mature Trimbach, Burgundy, and Bordeaux

Palena, Washington, D.C.
Tasted Saturday, February 7, 2009 by drwine2001 with 654 views

Introduction

Many thanks to Paul, Ken, and David for their hospitality and generosity. Not only was the food superb at Palena, but the young server who took care of us did a marvelous job with all of the bottles that were flying around.

Flight 1 - Warm Up Whites Blind (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

    France, Alsace

    Medium yellow. Began with very yellow peach notes, but then the nose showed more lemon and clay over time with the slightest development of petrol at the end. Medium weight, very sound but not frightening acidity, and dry. This tightened and displayed great focus and intensity. Fresher than the last bottle tried, which had some oxidative notes. Not the biggest nor most profound Clos Ste. Hune, but excellent all the same. Interestingly, we tasted this and the '98 Frederic Emile blinded, and all 4 tasters correctly identified which was which. This was a bit finer, leaner, and longer, but there was very little difference in quality.

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  • 1998 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

    France, Alsace

    Medium yellow color, almost identical to the Clos Ste. Hune of the same year next to which this was tasted. Much more grapefruit on the nose of this one. Drinking very well now with classic dry fruit, medium weight and terrific acidity. This became a bit fatter than the Clos Ste. Hune, but this comment must be taken in context of the lean Trimbach style. The level of quality was so close to that of the more expensive wine that I'm sure most people would prefer to have and drink 3 bottles of this rather than one of the Clos Ste. Hune. An illuminating comparison.

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Flight 2 - Reds (5 Notes)

  • 1990 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Amazingly dark, deep, and unevolved looking. Sweaty, tannic, black fruit and licorice on the nose. No surprise on the palate-this is a brute, dry and tannic with tart blackberry. Toward the end of the bottle, it did begin to pick up some florality and began to unclench somewhat. Nothing like a lush, soupy '90, this is all Faiveley and all Corton. It is nowhere near ready, but it is so severe and structured at this age that I would not bank on its future. Although the pairing was unintended, it really was the perfect Burgundy to drink next to older, drier style Bordeaux.

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  • 1966 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Good color for a 40+ year old wine with minimal bricking. Cedary nose. Lovely faded fruit retaining subtle sweetness. Tannins are still there, but I was most impressed with the acidity of this wine, which gave it wonderful freshness without astringency. A throwback claret of delicacy and finesse with classic Pauillac aromatics. This has enough flesh to not be as sinewy as many '66s. Very pretty wine.

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  • 1970 Château Montrose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Again, like the '66 Pichon Baron, fine healthy color with lighter edges. Lots of brett on the nose upfront. This dissipated to show a burst of dark cherry fruit which was short lived. While still tannic, this has softened but does not have a wonderful texture in the mouth nor does it show much in the way of flavor beyond the tannins. St. Estephe just never does it for me. I remember tasting this at age 12 or so (the wine, that is, not me), when it was the toughest red wine I'd ever come across. Now at close to 40 years of age, it has mellowed, but how much has it gained? It's also hard to imagine any upside given the lack of fruit and generosity. I think the Pauillac was preferred by a pretty wide margin by all of us.

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  • 1981 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    Good color for its age. Compared to the old Bordeaux on the table, very ripe and simple except for a distinctly minty note. It has certainly held up, but it left very little impression beyond that.

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  • 1990 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

    Beautiful medium ruby with tawny rim. Oh my, the nose on this was so feminine and red-fruited compared to the bootstrap Faiveley Corton! Seductive, perfumed mix of iron and Gevrey earth as well. Not a big wine at all, in fact, I could have mistaken this for a Cote de Beaune. Delicious strawberry fruit that is poised and not overripe. Lovely persistence and balance with the soil note coming through in the finish. This is wine! Another fantastic Jadot 1990 with the right stuff for additional graceful aging. The wine of the night for me, and it had some pretty stiff competition.

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Flight 3 - A Sticky (1 Note)

  • 1988 Château Climens

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    From a half bottle. Deep golden color. Intoxicating nose of butterscotch, spice, and apricot. Gorgeous weight (i.e., not too heavy), creamy, great acidity that buffers the sweetness. Both lively and very much alive with a good life span ahead of it. Wouldn't it be great if the 2001s developed along the same lines? We can hope. Despite leaning toward other dessert wine regions, I have to admit that this is a wonderful Sauternes.

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