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JancisRobinson.com

Winedoctor

Garagiste

  • By Jon Rimmerman
    5/5/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

    (SPATLESE Crusius BASTEI GK) 2007 Crusius Dear Friends, Dr. Crusius is back with a vengeance in 2007 and the entire portfolio has merit beyond what was accomplished in most of Germany. It's always tough to distill what makes one vintage "great" at an estate and another merely good as it's a confluence of nature, exposure, timing, talent and (to some degree) luck. In 2007, Dr. Crusius had all the elements in alignment and it will be obvious once you taste the wines: Joel B. Payne: "Always one of the better producers on the Nahe, this estate often stood in the shadow of Diel, Donnhoff and Emrich-Schonleber but has now taken a role on center stage. Dr. Peter Crusius, who joined his father Hans in 1982, believes that 2007 is "the best year I've ever had. " Although the past few vintages have all been notable, I agree. Through it all, Crusius has retained his own somewhat old-fashioned style, but with a mineral depth to his wines that few can match. He now pairs that with precision and elegance. In 2007 his Rotenfels Riesling Halbtrocken XIII (the Roman numeral indicating the residual sugar) is one of the ten best off-dry Rieslings of the vintage in all of Germany. Similarly, his Felsenberg Riesling Auslese GK is also at the head of its class. These wines are certainly worth a detour." All are directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2007 Dr. Crusius Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Kabinett 750ml A classic Nahe Kabinett in a great vintage for low pradikat wines. This is still sanely priced but the property is feeling the pressure to raise their prices to more of a Donnhoff level. If this is the last vintage under $20, it may as well be 2007. If you like your Kabinett with real cut, minerality and acidity (versus blowsy extract), this is your wine. The anti-Rheingau example. 2007 Dr. Crusius Traiser Bastei Riesling Spatlese GK 750ml This is the Gold Capsule culling of the Bastei Spatlese at a steal of a price (for a full 750ml). Extract, floaty stone fruit, flowers and white fleshed peaches vie with buried acidity and a correct Spatlese presence to give this lovely wine a persona most of us would gladly encounter any day of the week - should age for many years. 2007 Dr. Crusius Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese GK 500ml This wine is simply stunning. It's also almost impossible to find (this is not the regular Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Auslese). Crusius ran neck and neck with a few others for 2007 Wine of the Vintage honors in Germany and many believe he actually pulled it off with this pot of gold. This is not only the finest Auslese produced in the Nahe in 2007 but you will be tempted to call it the finest of the vintage as well. A layered cacophony of varietal tone, exotic fruit, Indian spice, earth and stones that is so complete (and pent up) it makes the taster recoil. EXTREMELY LIMITED: Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Germ8210 Germ8220 Germ8230

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