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93 Points

Saturday, October 24, 2020 - A traditionalist Barbaresco, fermented in stainless steel tanks and macerated with the skins for 25-30 days. This bottle is from Lot 19.058, ie. the wine is bottled in late February 2019, after some two-plus years of aging in large botti casks. 14,5% alcohol. Decanted for 1½ hours. Tasted in Produttori del Barbaresco 2016-1970 vertical.

Translucent, luminous ruby red color. Somewhat restrained yet very attractive and subtly sweetish nose with aromas of licorice, some strawberry, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light candied notes of raspberry marmalade and a floral hint of roses. Lovely. The wine is firm, ripe and juicy on the palate with intense, subtly sweet-toned flavors of black cherries, some peppery spice, a little bit of licorice, light brambly notes of blackberry, a hint of gravelly minerality and a ferrous touch of blood. The overall feel is youthful and textural, but despite its firm and assertive tannins and high acidity, the wine isn't aggressively tightly-knit or lean; the ripeness and intensity of fruit serve as a wonderful counterpoint to the firm structure. The high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate. The finish is long, powerful and quite intense with rather noticeable tannic grip and intense flavors of sour cherries, some cranberry, a little bit of licorice root, light meaty notes of umami, a hint of brambly blackberry and a touch of gravelly minerality.

A powerful, impressively structured and still all too youthful Barbaresco. The wine is surprisingly accessible despite its youth, but it nevertheless isn't particularly open yet - there's quite a bit of depth and nuance here, but overall the wine feels a bit like a sleeper. It is brimming with potential and truly lives up to the 2016 vintage hype. Most likely it will need another 4-6 years before it starts to open up fully, but I can't even fathom how much this wine will before it hits its peak. Seeing how the best vintages are drinking wonderfully +50 years from the harvest, I have no doubts it will take several decades before this wine is at its apogee. Instead of drinking any bottles, I heartily suggest trying to get as many additional bottles as possible and fill your cellar with them. Outrageous quality for the price at 27,90€.

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