Az Agr Virna Borgogno, Barolo
Tasted Friday, September 8, 2023 by Joshvoulters with 70 views
Sought out this producer after being blown away by her Cannubi '19. A producer I'll now follow - UK distribution isn't up to much unfortunately.
This branch of the Borgogno family has been farming here since 1950, and this is the third generation of winemakers. Run by sisters Virna (winemaker) and Ivana (commercial, marketing). Virna was the first Italian woman to gain a degree in oenology, graduating in 1991.
The main holdings are in Cannubi and Sarmassa, with other plots dotted around the various subzones. They practice sustainable farming but aren't organic certified. Previously more of a modernist winemaking style, there are still a lot of barriques hanging around the cellar - but Virna has consciously avoided new oak and given the wines more time in botti grande in recent years.
The style of this producer is right up my street and Virna herself is great. Very pleased I happened across their wines.
2022 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Sto Fuori 90 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Grown on Cannubi and has to be labelled as a Langhe Bianco. 100% Timorasso and the best example of the grape I've had. More fresh and mineral than the standard style, which aligns better with my taste. It's fermented in steel and spends 6 months sur lie.
Salty, lemony and limey with hints of beeswax. Precise and direct on the palate with a long salty, stony finish. Maybe lacks a little depth and dimension but I paid 12 Euro for this from the winery and it's a bargain at that price- super high quality midweek drinker.
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2021 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Langhe Nebbiolo IL 88 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Direct, fruity and juicy. Good Nebbiolo character with raspberry, strawberry and a slightly leafy note.
Grown on vineyards with a northerly exposure, dedicated to this cuvee.
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2019 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Barbera d'Alba San Giovanni 90 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba
Tarry depth and vibrant dark berries, thyme. Balanced with integrated acidity and smooth tannins: a dark-toned, serious wine that retains a nice amount of freshness.
Grown on 70 year old vines, spends 15 months in used barrique.
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2019 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Barolo Noi 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Blend of fruit from various sites in La Morra and Novello.
Great aromatic complexity, fresh but intense. 20% used barrique, the rest botti grande. Cherry, strawberry - bright richness. Tannins are very fine. A fantastic 'normale' - and more than a bit in common with the equivalent bottling from another branch of the Borgogno clan in this vintage - Serio e Battista.
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2018 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Barolo Sarmassa 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Expansive, rangy perfume. Red and dark fresh fruit, maybe a little rounded. Real energy and concentration on the palate, deep but elegant. Tannins noticeably more assertive than some of the other bottlings- this undergoes 1 week's submerged cap fermentation which apparently gives a firmer tannic structure.
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2017 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Barolo Cannubi 90 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Open, intense bouquet. Dried flowers, herbs and salumi. Red and dark fruit on the palate: very good but not a patch on the same cuvee in 2019.
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2013 Azienda Virna Di Borgogno Barolo del Commune di Barolo 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Fruit mainly sourced from Preda and Sarmassa.
The only wine from this producer where I detect tarry notes: lovely depth and aromas of eucalyptus. Waves of aromatic complexity well up -leather, chocolate, tobacco, rich dark cherry fruit- those aromas sound developed but it has a sense of freshness and energy. Tannins are very well managed- prominent but round and fine. I reckon this needs a decade, but it's got so much potential.
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