2008 Robert Karcher Gewurztraminer Harth

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  7/23/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (GEWURZTRAMINER Robert Karcher) 2008 Alsace Dear Friends, If you are a fan of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and the other Alsatian varietals, 2008 is the year you've been hoping for: lower sugars, cooler temperatures and an ultra-classic framework not seen for a number of years. 2007 was similar but ultimately rode on its chiseled framework for definition and not its overall balance. 2008 carries the same tensile minerality, shimmering acidity and filigreed framework of 2007 but the depth of the pure extractive in most wines is longer and even brighter. In general, 2008 was a barn-burner of a vintage in Alsace, probably the finest in a decade or more. There will be great debate in the years ahead as to which is the better year (2007 or 2008) but like 1989 and 1990 in Bordeaux, there's not a lot to argue about - most collectors would be overjoyed to have both vintages in their cellar (to be even more accurate from a style perspective, I would liken 2007 and 2008 in Alsace to 1988 and 1989 in Bordeaux and/or Piedmont). After tasting through 150+ Alsatian wines from 2008 (across the entire spectrum) it appears to be one of the most exciting vintages in a long time. Gone are the global warming/heat trap elements that have plagued the region in recent years in favor of a more 1989-like result. Where 2007 can offend some with its piquant nature (not this taster - it's one of my favorite vintages), 2008 has more obvious varietal tone and depth with the same level of nervous acidity and crushed stone character - exactly what we hope for when we reach for the wine from this region. 2008 is a connoisseur's vintage but also one that the inexperienced can learn from - it is a vintage to save up for, certainly from the better names or the properties you have an affinity for. If you had to push me (and I do not like to generalize), in many ways, 2008 reminds me of 2001 in the Mosel - a dreamscape vintage that had everything in place - extract, acidity, harmony and balance. 2008 could be the Alsatian coming-out party on a world stage hungry for something new, something exciting. The only problem? Tonnage. There is simply no wine to be had - some producers have production levels at half of normal and they need to supply their European customers first (sometimes it pays to be loyal and the European distributors that have supported most of the wineries for decades will be rewarded with the majority of the 2008s - the result is that you will see very little wine in the US). With that said, be on the lookout for your favorite names - when you see them, buy them and don't worry about price shopping. The good news for American shoppers is that Alsatian wines still don't garner a mad rush to Costco, but that may change - they said the same thing about German wine pre-2001 as well... Which brings us to our Alsatian over-achiever and hero for the everyman (and woman): Robert Karcher. Robert Karcher has become one of our most popular stalwarts for good reason - honest value in a wine-world that's gone price crazy. With today's economy, there couldn't be a better time for this winery and they are back with the 2008 vintage - one that will turn any Monday night (or Sunday afternoon on the terrace) into a holiday of sorts. An insider's secret in Colmar and beyond, Robert Karcher sells all of their wine from a small 16th-century house in the middle of Colmar - they self-distribute in France and that's about it. Their marketing efforts are all word of mouth and it has been that way for decades. In a region slow to change, Karcher has kept the same philosophy for years: produce the finest wine possible (by hand), bottle it without interference and allow the vintage to speak - and do so for a price that any family can afford. They do not pretend to be Zind-Humbrecht but their attention to detail is just as fierce and they go into every vintage with a determination to reflect each varietal and its place with the lightest touch possible. All of their wine is sourced from their own vineyards, in their hands for a hundred years or more - nearly all are labeled simply as "Harth" denoting the circle of vineyards around Colmar. In addition, Karcher is one of the top sommelier choices in the region - they supply many of the best restaurants in Alsace with beautifully made, inexpensive wine that belies its price (they also count may of their rival winemakers as customers - everyone likes a good value, even those that make wine themselves). If you are looking for the pure essence of Alsace at an easy to like price, this new set of wines can be opened any night of the week. They deliver light to mid-weight terroir in a precise style that has won Robert Karcher a myriad of gold medals and accolades including the highest rated example of Gewurztraminer at last year's ICGW (the international Gewurztraminer competition - 300-350 wines from the 8 countries that produce Gewurztraminer and Karcher won with a $15 wine). The house style is almost always dry or near-dry - this is not a sugar hunter estate and they disdain the gloppy, sweet wines that many of their rivals produce. If you enjoyed the delicate style of Karcher's 2007s, the 2008s across the board have a similar integrity with just enough additional depth to push them into a different league. Basically, you can't go wrong with this portfolio - you may not give up your Boxler or find the holy grail but you will find honest value that delivers an artisanal, top-flight $10-15 experience (that you will feel good about owning and supporting): 2008 Robert Karcher Sylvaner "Harth" Entry level? I don't think so. The only reason this wine is not $13.99 like the others is that it is customary to offer your Sylvaner for local consumption at a lower price. The only grape that had real difficulty in 2008 across the region was Muscat but Sylvaner was the opposite - some vintners believe this is the finest Sylvaner crop since the 1980's and Karcher's rendition shows us why - I could drink buckets of it. The hallmarks of Sylvaner are here - mint mixed with lime, rock and a mÄlange of fresh flowers (although not flowery) that dance in a dry, bracing framework that would pair very well with fresh lake fish or delicate poultry dishes. Slightly more powerful than normal with a similar or even lower alcohol level than 2007 (one of the magic surprises of the 2008 vintage was low-moderate alcohol in the best wines), this Sylvaner is a bit more masculine than the delicate waif that was the 2007 - all with no loss of focus or precision. I remember walking away from my initial tasting of this wine with Karcher and I couldn't believe how good the Sylvaner was for the price. With a price increase of 20-30% over the 2007, it's still a value. 2008 Robert Karcher Riesling "Harth" Well, well, well - Karcher has upped the ante on his top-level 2007 Riesling "Harth" with a rendition that is not only singing from the get-go, it shouts. Keep this in mind when shopping for 2008 Alsatian wine: 2008 was particularly kind to Riesling and that is going to make US consumers very happy (that are partial to Riesling anyway). If you are into dry and mineral soaked renditions of this grape (and wish to pay this price for your everyday examples), you may want to consider more than a few bottles of this. I suppose that's pushy to say but this wine calls out for extended evaluation which cannot be done with 1-2 bottles. Maybe it was the 2008 vintage but this wine is both piercing and poignant, tactile and flowing with energy that will fold into itself over the next 6-12 months. This wine reminds me of bottled sunlight (in a green tinged Riesling way). I'll stop there or everyone will try the Riesling and nothing else... 2008 Robert Karcher Pinot Gris "Harth" The Karcher's believes this is their strongest wine in 2008 and I can see why - it is a ridiculous value (although they will never give credence to the Gewurztraminer because it sells out the fastest anyway and they try to ignore it in the hope that you will find some of the other wines equally worthy). Pinot Gris is typically the most expensive varietal and it is considered the King of Alsace by most vintners. It is for those that seek a dark-toned, smoke-filled expression with the oily sap this grape is known for. Broad shouldered but still pure and elegant, this near-dry example has basically no perceptible sugar - you feel the weightless stones here bobbing in a pool of Pinot Gris textural extract and it has the impression of a much more expensive, palate staining wine without any heaviness. Long on the palate and captivating, this is certainly impressive. 2008 Robert Karcher Gewurztraminer "Harth" The winery's flagship and the wine they are most noted for, this wine is so low-priced for the quality that its probably a poor business decision on their part. They should at least charge in the high teens or risk being tossed in with bulk wine purveyors or the Two Buck Chucks of Alsace. Gewurztraminer is also one of the more expensive varietals in the region and it is no secret that Karcher makes the least amount of profit here. The 2008 is nothing short of a mini-marvel. Its floral perfume can be sniffed from several feet away. An amalgam of incense, cut flowers, patchouli oil and peppery spices follow through on the palate and linger long on the finish and in the memory. While almost penetrating in purity, this full-toned wine is beautifully precise in its display of a masculine and feminine persona. Highly drinkable (rather than just a floral mess), this wine should be interesting to watch develop over the next 6-8 years. The 2008 Karcher wines are ONE SHIPMENT ONLY - they have too much demand or their 2008s and this is the only shipment coming to the US (American consumers are not the only ones that have waited many years for a vintage like this - the Alsatians themselves are socking away everything they can get their hands on). Please limit requests to 24/each wine and we will allocate accordingly Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Als8110 Als8120 Als8130 Als8140