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Sunday, May 3, 2020 - After being most impressed with the 2018 Picardy Pinot Noir (tasting note a couple of days ago), I progressed to their aptly named 2018 Tête de Cuvée. I have never before seen an Australian pinot of this calibre. And that's despite it being my favourite variety since I first drank the famous 1981 Moss Wood wine which also, BTW, was made by Bill Pannell when he was creating the legend which is that label. This Picardy stunner is however a joint effort of both Bill and his son Dan Pannell.

With complex flavours embroidered on an elegant texture, it already has the flavour spectrum (including truffle hints) and smoothness of a mature wine. I could have mistaken it for a circa 10 year old Burgundy from a quality producer in a good year. Seamless and beautifully balanced, I was stunned at how well it drank at this stage. How can that be, given that this producer’s pinots improve for ~ 10 years (or so) … Pemberton tannins can be admirably fine and I put its velvety smooth elegance down to that, in a superb year coupled with fastidious vineyard management and deft, gentle handling in the winery.

Compared to the standard release, it has darker fruit, is more complex and even better integrated, and is smoother with even more elegance. It evoked in me the setting of a top end restaurant with an ambience of low lights, velvet, beautiful timber, intimate tables and beautifully dressed discreet waiters…
Disclosure: I have a relationship with this producer (because I regard it as one of Australia's best).

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3 comments have been posted

  • Comment posted by Guady23:

    7/16/2021 6:27:00 AM - Wonderful write up, who ever you are as I to have a strong friendship with Bill and Dan

  • Comment posted by Greg Munyard:

    2/2/2022 4:30:00 AM - Thanks Guady. I've enjoyed reading your tasting notes too. Lucky you to have a relationship with Bill & Dan. Perhaps think about using it to see if you can get a look at the astonishing 2020 Tete - due for release in 2023.

    Oh my goodness - what a wine the 2020 is. It's even better than the superb 2018 but it's going to be very hard to get a hold of when released. Lots of small berries in a small vintage anyway -> high quality...)

    It has not only superb complexity but a distinct lift and a character that must have come from a greater quantity of fruit from the new clones. (2020 was a great vintage and they would have made a great wine anyway without the increased % of material from the 'new' Burgundian clones that bore fruit in 2020. But this was special...).

    Perhaps you know that quality Burgundies and other top-end pinots can be hard to assess so young but this wine was clearly a step up from an already highly regarded line. I've seen many Burgundies in barrel but haven't seen every high quality pinot made in Aussie in recent years (in barrel or in bottle). If however anyone has made another Aussie pinot of this calibre I would love to get some for the cellar.

  • Comment posted by Guady23:

    2/2/2022 11:20:00 PM - Hi Greg

    Completely agree mate, I have seen the 2020 TDC. and 2020 Pinot along with all other vintages since getting put into a barrel, 2021 Chardonnay looked very smart as well. Still, 2020 Pinot and 19 TDC come out this year - love what they are doing and will probably be down there in March picking and having some fun at the winery.

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