Dain Wines Barrel Samples (and others)
Springfield, MO
Tasted Saturday, June 18, 2005 by mdstenner with 813 views
Introduction
I had the immense pleasure to travel to Springfield this past weekend along old route 66 (okay, the new I-44) with Joey and a few friends to try David Dain Smith’s ‘very close to being ready’ 2004 wines. It was actually David’s birthday so it was doubly special for us as he opened up his entire day for those of us who traveled from Tulsa.
We sampled David’s four Pinot Noirs and a single Syrah. David reported that his plan is to bottle in August with the mailer going out in September. The mailing list is growing longer by the day so make sure you sign-up now. (Disclaimer: obviously I have no economic interest in Dain’s endeavor – sadly)
A few preliminary notes…
Modesty. David is far too modest. Any time a compliment about his wines came his way he was too eager to pass off thanks to the likes of Brian Loring, Andrew Vingiello, Adam Lee and so on. While these guys have provided insightful advice these are ultimately David’s wines and he should be incredibly proud of them. Of course Scott Shapley deserves much of the credit along with David and he’s done a great job for this budding winery.
Quality. The Dain wines are all terrific in their own way with some needing some bottle age after release, and others being ready to go right away. I was impressed. I went up with high expectations, probably too high, but I was very impressed once the tasting was over. We tasted some other power wines during the course of the afternoon and David’s wines more than held their own.
Expression. David made a point to express his desire that his wines show their site and origins, rather than just being power Pinots. And in this he succeeded. Each wine had its own characteristic aromas and flavors. Moreover, as all of the Pinots opened at about the two-hour mark they began to all demonstrate these huge coffee/mocha noses that were expressive and enticing.
Balance. I was happy and relieved that the Pinots, while big, were not monsters, most in the 14.5% alcohol range. The Syrah was a giant at 16%, but the alcohol was carried very well.
Generosity. Thanks to David and the guys at the Brown Derby in Springfield for making us all feel so welcome. I’d only met David recently through the board and here I was, enjoying his wines. We later enjoyed dinner and some awesome and special wines in some great company too (‘98 and ‘02 Pavie, ‘64 Leroy Hospice de Beaune, ‘66 Jaboulet C-d-P). I was humbled and touched but having now spent a few hours with David I see this is just how he handles his daily life – with quiet dignity, passion, class and a consideration for everyone else first above himself. David’s lovely wife Cathy was equally engaging with the same mid-western class and dignity. I can see why they love living where they do and why they have such strong local roots. They are quiet confident mid-westerners with a cosmopolitan outlook on life.
Okay, onto the wines. All of these were medium to full-bodied with mouth-filling, sensual flavors.
Flight 1 - Pinots (5 Notes)
Overall Pinot impressions: Outstanding. The wines are well named indeed. Two of them are ready to go. The Rebel Rancho Ontiveros is a brooding masculine wine with a big profile. It is straightforward, immensely pleasurable and would be a Pinot to match with dark meats. The American Beauty Amber Ridge is the most feminine and to my mind the most complex and beguiling of the wines. It evolved best in the glass, had the best balance, and was the most engaging. It is a wine to open with a good friend and enjoy over some great conversation for an evening. I’ll be interesting to see how this wine lasts over 5-7 years. The other two wines need some additional bottle age after release. I think the Dandy Brosseau will be outstanding. The Anticipation Alder Springs it is hardest to evaluate right now. I think this wine has something in reserve once the wine calms down. It is already very good but it might reveal more in time. It was a little shy today.
What was most impressive as throughout the tasting I was mentally comparing these wines to the raft of Martinelli Pinots I had enjoyed a few weeks ago. David’s wines are very much in that full-on, heavy-hitting style but three things stood out. The wines were more complex, had better flavors in the mouth, and were just as well balanced as Turley’s wines.
After these wonderful Pinot Noir it was time to raise the stakes and try David’s Syrah along with some another highly praised Syrah and a C-d-P ‘homage’.
Flight 2 - Rhone Varietals (3 Notes)
Flight 3 - Misc wines at dinner (2 Notes)
At dinner following the tasting we enjoyed a range of great wines including a 66 Jaboulet C-d-P and a Hospice du Beaune 1964 Blanc (Chardonnay). I didn't take notes but I wanted to post on the Pavie.
Closing
A big hand to David not only for his amazing wines but also for his generosity of time and spirit. He is a class act and I wish him the very best in this exciting endeavor. I am very grateful to have been afforded the opportunity to try the wines but more than that to meet David, his family and friends, and to spend time in their company.
Salut!
2004 Dain Wines Pinot Noir American Beauty Amber Ridge Vineyard 93 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Barrel sample tasted with David Dain Smith @ the Derb in Springfield, MO.
The wine is a rich ruby color with a jammy ripe nose with floral hints. It is surprisingly deft for such a powerful wine. Hints of mineral and earth, and then these come more to the fore. Clearly a fine and aromatic nose. Very smoky flavors – wow this is good – with raspberry, cinnamon, cola, and clove flavors. A sensual and giving wine. Rich, sweet fruit. Very well named indeed. This is an ‘American Beauty’.
Other notes: Given its apparent low acidity, this is a wine to drink on release but I think this can go further than David thinks. It has a very solid depth of fruit. This wine tastes mature. It is, in fact, already a complete wine. After about 90 minutes the nose on this wine exploded with coffee aromas that were evident well away from the glass. It was outrageous. Re-tasting the wine is velvety in the mouth and it’s being coated with toasty rich fruits. It’s medium to full-bodied but it glides over the tongue. As the last sip fell into the back of my mouth and into sorry oblivion I was quite maudlin.
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2004 Dain Wines Pinot Noir Anticipation Alder Springs Vineyard 91 Points
USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Barrel sample tasted with David Dain Smith @ the Derb in Springfield, MO.
Dark ruby/garnet. Nose of black cherry, cinnamon and cherry. Sweet cherry and pomegranate flavors. Not as complex as the ‘Beauty’ but this wine is also still coming together (in the sense that a few weeks might be needed). This wine had the shortest finish but it was the strongest with a dark chocolate kiss goodbye. Nice acidity and balance. Elegant but sumptuous. Needs time to show full potential. I’d give this wine 1-2 years in bottle.
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2004 Dain Wines Pinot Noir Dandy Brosseau Vineyard 92 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
Barrel sample tasted with David Dain Smith @ the Derb in Springfield, MO.
You wouldn’t know this was a Pinot from the color or nose at first. The color is inky purple/dark ruby and the nose is dominated by meaty aromatics. The flavors and full and rich, with a full mid-palate. There is a solid tannic grip and the wine is a little brutish right now. To me that is a good thing. There seems to be a high level of acidity in the wine that bodes well for aging, especially as the fruit is sourced from limestone heavy soils that have already produced long-lived and complex wines. The core of fruit is very backward and unevolved but all of the components are there. I predict this will be an outstanding wine in 2-3 years. You read it here first.
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2004 Dain Wines Pinot Noir Rebel Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard 92 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Barrel sample tasted with David Dain Smith @ the Derb in Springfield, MO.
Dark ruby. Nose of spices and pepper. Opens after 15-20 minutes to reveal black cherry, cola and blackberry. A generous open palate of spices (cumin and nutmeg?), blackberry, and the ripest dark cherry. Tannins are not evident. Complex. Delicious. This is a splendid wine. Drink this bold wine on release.
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2003 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Carter Vineyard 93 Points
USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
A dark dense color, almost black. An evolved and complex nose – cherry, spice, pepper and licorice. Very ripe fruits in the mouth. A very good wine. This was the most approachable young Ken Wright wine I’ve enjoyed. Not your typical Oregon Pinot.
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