Rhône Tasting-cum-Lunch

Restaurant Rijsel, Amsterdam, NL
Tasted Sunday, July 10, 2022 by Xavier Auerbach with 193 views

Flight 1 - Côte Rôtie at three ages (3 Notes)

  • 2019 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Classique Ampodium 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Very elegant and approachable style, flowers and cherries and berries, pure and precise, Burgundian, slightly lactic, firm tannins covered in flesh, sappy, very aromatic finish. On the second day the innate power of the wine and the firm tannic structure are much more noticeable, underlining that the pretty (baby-) face of the wine at this stage is a bit deceiving. There is still a lot of youthful aromatic expression to enjoy however. Completely intact on the third day.

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  • 2009 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Classique Ampodium 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Still quite primary, starting to develop some tertiary complexity, elegant but ahtletic, firm structure but elegant, powerful but transparent and precise, long and tight finish. Good future. Excellent wine.

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  • 1999 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Classique 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Structurally completely intact, warm spices and red meat, deep yet elegant, silky texture, mostly resolved tannins, showing a bit of wood, slightly drying but perfumed finish.

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Flight 2 - La Landonne vertical 2000-2019 (18 Notes)

  • 2019 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    From a warm year, this is a wine with remarkable freshness and floral notes, blue and black fruit, deep but playful, expansive finish. Very stylish. A clear step up from the Ampodium. Similar to the Ampodium 2019, the impressive tannic power is much more to the fore in the second day, but aromatically the wine remains beautifully expressive. The expression “iron fist in a velvet glove” comes to mind. Completely intact on the third day.

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  • 2018 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Warm and powerful style, rich colour, quite big even for a Rostaing Landonne (with 14.5% ABV), slightly plummy but still precise, pure and polished, gentle sweetness from the fruit, refined tannins, excellent length. On the second day this displays lots of sticky tannins, but (surprisingly) it is not as tannic as the 2019’s, there is lovely floral lift on the nose and a hint of chocolate on the finish. Completely intact on the third day.

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  • 2017 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Firm tannins in an elegant frame (in spite of its 14.5% ABV), does not show a lot of fruit at present, slightly vegetal, nice hint of perfume, tight finish. In a closed phase – wait five years. On the second day this is showing similar tannic power as on the first day, but there is much more depth of glossy fruit, and the vegetal notes are all but gone. The floral finish is still tight however, and the overall aromatic expression remains reserved. The upward potential is clear – but we need to be patient. Completely intact on the third day.

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  • 2016 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    A relatively cool year, but harvested under perfect circumstances after an Indian summer. Beautiful freshness and elegance, finely grained tannins, pepper and flowers, fragrant roses, long and playful finish. Deeply serious but very charming.

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  • 2015 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Warm and dry vintage. Powerful, big and tannic, quite closed right now, very impressive but needs much more time. On the second day there is not much development, the wine is staying stubbornly in its shell of mouthcoating tannins, and the aromas remain primary. Built for the long haul. Wait ten years at least. Completely intact on the third day.

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  • 2013 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Late harvest, Indian summer. Quite vegetal on the nose, relatively dry, light and supple structure, spicy finish.

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  • 2012 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Released by the Domaine in 2021. Supple, lots of fruit and charm, hint of nutty warmth, very gentle tannins, not powerful and concentrated but juicy and easy-going, lovely length with a hint of sweetness.

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  • 2011 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 91 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Released by the Domaine in 2021. Not an easy wine to appreciate at present. Vegetal and quite drying tannins, tight and a bit tough on the finish.

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  • 2010 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 97 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    This has everything - even though you have to go looking for it at present. So complete and detailed, silky and structured, starting to show some evolution, hint of cheese rind, expansive finish. Long life.

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  • 2009 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Real concentration and power here, but without any excess or heat, sandy tannins, flowers and red berries, precise and polished, freshness and elegance, great length.

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  • 2008 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Quite herbaceous nose, fresh and transparant, light and attractive style, hint of boudoir powder, lacks a bit of complexity but this may develop with more age, a wine of surprising elegance from what is essentially an off-year.

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  • 2007 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Released by the Domaine in 2021. Lovely nose, luxurious, deep and warm, spices and red meat, concentration and warmth buffered by refreshing acidity and papery tannins, touch of wood, retains its fruit, has developed beautifully.

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  • 2006 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Deep and spicy nose, good depth, red meat, rich and luxurious style, nice hint of sweetness, mostly resolved tannins, good length.

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  • 2005 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Very youthful, slightly closed nose but with remarkably fresh fruit underneath, no excess of tannins, beautifully made, flowers, precise, huge energy, will last for a vety long time.

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  • 2004 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Very smoky nose, fresh and tannic, medicinal, menthol, tight and structured, showing very well but an outlier aromatically.

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  • 2003 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Quite a success for this vintage, deep and warm but vibrant and fresh, with firm but ripe tannins, powerful and concentrated but without excess or errors, relatively little terroir expression as the vintage dominates, has matured very well.

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  • 2001 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Slightly varnishy nose, sensual but elegant, fresher than the 2000, slightly vegetal, lively, honeyed, tight and animating finish. Second bottle oxidised.

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  • 2000 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    A wonderful wine, richly developed, sweet and meaty, opulent, very sexy and flowing, little or no tannins left, fully mature.

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Flight 3 - Aperitif and lunch (11 Notes)

  • 2019 Rene Rostaing Condrieu La Bonnette 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

    Non-malo, stainless steel only. Very floral and fresh, almost Riesling-like, touch of lychee too, juicy and supple, peach skin, relatively elegant in spite of a whopping 15% ABV, hint of aniseed, lovely length.

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  • 2018 Rene Rostaing Condrieu La Bonnette 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

    Non-malo, stainless steel only. Warmer style than the 2019, supple and fleshy, rich and rounded, very good length.

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  • 2019 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Coteau de Vernon 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

    Low acidity but wonderfully minerally intensity, well integrated oak (25% new), rich but elegant, explosive aromatics, real finesse, powerful but elegant, savoury notes, long and floral finish.

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  • 2018 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Coteau de Vernon 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

    Rich and peachy, deep and spicy, hint of (25% new) oak, minerally and energetic, firm bitters, long finish with a touch of back-end heat.

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  • 2013 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Bottle No. 10404 and 10405. Initital hint of oxidation blows off quickly, deep and minerally, open and giving, fresh and complex, silky and seamless with gentle bitters, lovely salinity, rich but effortlessly elegant, orange zest, excellent drive and length. The second bottle is more muted and honeyed, orange and spices, with deeper flavours and not as lifted.

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  • 2013 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Made from centenarian Roussanne vines, harvested at a slight surmaturité, aged for eight months in oak (30%) and cuve (70%), 14.5% ABV. Rich and oily but fresh and floral, fleshy and sweet, concentrated and expressive, marvellous minerality, pure and precise, seamless and silky, great resonance and length. Long life.

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  • 1972 Xavier Vignon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Xavier 1972 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    A veritable fruit bomb on the nose, fresh and deep and spicy, amazing expression; ripe but incredibly fresh and juicy on the palate, light and bright and elegant; leathery finish, cassis, very good length.

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  • 1999 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Deep and cedary, black fruit, tannic and rich, masculine and minerally, sturdy and structured, not really terroir driven, flavoursome and persistent.

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  • 1999 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Deep and rich and spicy, flowers and spices, red meat, complete and elegant, structured and expressive, firm but flowing hint of lovage on the finish, very good length.

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  • 1982 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Velours 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    From an unopened three bottle case, unmoved since purchase in the 1980's. Pristine condition, less than 1cm below the cork. Marsanne passerillé “sur la souche” or “sur pied”, a method used in Hermitage since the middle ages, 7120 bottles produced, 15.5% ABV. Pale amber colour. Off-dry, fragrant, fresh and nutty, slightly sherried, delicate and elegant, honeyed and supple, gentle bitters, intense but light on its feet, very good length.

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  • 1994 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Vin de Paille 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Half bottle. Deep and rich, excellent concentration, dried fruit, dates, figs, lively acidity, lovely tension, honey, full on sweetness, great length.

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