Reignac Vertical

I attended a dinner in 2008, hosted by Mr. Vatelot, where we tasted Reignac (2003 and 2004) and Balthus (2003 and 2004) blind against Lafite-Rothschild (2004), Haut-Brion (2003), Cheval Blanc (2003), and Dominus (2004).

By consensus, the 2003 Balthus and Reignac beat out offerings from the same vintage from Haut-Brion and Cheval Blanc. Lafite and Dominus were preferred, though Reignac certainly wasn't embarrassed by the comparison. Considering that Reignac and Balthus sold for $20-30/bottle, it was a triumph that they held their own against wines >10x more expensive.

My palate was far less experienced back then, and I have had the good fortune to enjoy a lot of top-tier wine in the intervening six years. I was interested to see how these wines would taste with the benefit of improved perspective, and what effect 10-15+ years of aging would have on them.

• 2001 Reignac 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

  (2/7/2016)

  Opaque crimson color. Straightaway, this has a beautiful brooding aroma of mulberries, seasoned meat, rosemary, shoe polish, and the faintly sour smell of Trappist ale. There's a noticeable heat on the nose as well. By comparison, the palate is fairly thin and astringent, with a green tinge remaining and a somewhat bitter finish. Decanting did little to ameliorate the problem. This is the first bottle of my intended 2001-2005 Reignac vertical; I hope the remaining vintages have a better balance between the overachieving nose and the lackluster palate.

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• 2002 Reignac 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

  (2/8/2016)

  Medium-dark crimson color. The nose on this is not as ostentatious as on the olfactorily dense 2001. This has the subtle aroma of blackberries with a whiff of stewed tomatoes. Compared to the 2001 the palate is a big improvement, coming off as more elegant and without the rough edges or harsh flavors that marred the former. In the mouth this is quite smooth and round, with ample black fruit and mostly resolved tannins. Less fun to sniff but way more drinkable; I hope vintages 2003-05 will strike a better balance between character and class. More notes to come as I taste through this vertical.

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• 2003 Reignac 84 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

  (2/10/2016)

  Worst bottle of Reignac yet. Nose of acetone and a whiff of vanilla. Totally smooth palate, coming off as quite lightweight. Faint tannins linger on the back of the tongue, along with a somewhat bitter, metallic aftertaste. Not overtly offensive in any regard, but rather thin and characterless- like the anonymous house Bordeaux served by-the-glass in a bistro. Hard to believe that this was the wine that bested Cheval Blanc and Haut-Brion in a blind tasting back in 2008. The vertical continues with the 2004; notes to follow.

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• 2004 Reignac 86 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

  (2/11/2016)

  Dark rosewood color. Nose of ash, potpourri, and ripe plum. By contrast, the palate is one-dimensional, with the flavor of ripe tomatoes. This finishes with sturdy, granular tannins. The underwhelming Reignac vertical continues apace.

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• 1998 Reignac 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

  (2/16/2016)

  From 375 ml. This has an intense, beefy nose of blood, iron, and cigarette butts, with a spicy green note. The palate is similarly dark and savory, with flavors of boudin noir and black coffee. A little rough around the edges still; there is enough tannic structure remaining here to keep this alive for another 3-5 years. My experience with this vintage has been inconsistent, but this was one of the better bottles. The final vintage in my Reignac vertical will be the 2005; notes forthcoming.

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• 2005 Reignac 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur

  (2/24/2016)

  The final bottle of my Reignac vertical. Medium-dark crimson color. An ashy smell dominates the nose, which evolves aromas of braised meat (uncannily similar to Rhône wine), and sweet berries after some aeration. The palate has tart black fruit flavors accented by a piquant vegetal note. Tannins remain firm after a decade in the bottle, with the overall experience hinting at much more to be revealed here with maturation. The best of the bunch, this should remain very much alive through its twentieth birthday.

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On the positive side, Reignac offers excellent value for Bordeaux, at a price of $20-30/bottle. The 2005 would indicate that, at least in the better vintages, this wine remains vivacious and interesting beyond its tenth birthday.

However, to assert that these wines are the equal of First Growth Bordeaux appears preposterous in retrospect. Whereas the 1982 Mouton-Rothschild is still undergoing a profound metamorphosis at age thirty, the older vintages of Reignac are already starting to feel tired.

I believe these show well in their youth due to the high Merlot content, which makes them relatively more accessible in the early years. However, most can (and should be) enjoyed within a decade of release.

In summary: respectable wine and an excellent value. If a guest arrived to my dinner party bearing Reignac, I would thank them sincerely and remark on their good taste. However, I will not be stockpiling cases to enjoy in the 2030-2050 time period.